A French Lady Who Speaks German

First published in the print edition of Good Wine Magazine, 2013.

Pinot Noir, the most elegant of all grapes! When I think of this variety, I think about things such as sensual, subtle, silky and charming. Pinot Noir is feminine: like a stylish lady, she is tempting and irresistible, but at the same time sensitive and in need of care. Pinot Noir is not an easy grape to deal with. She can be seductive when made in perfect conditions; but she can be just as repelling when neglected. When you do not give her the attention she deserves, she becomes harsh, bitter and coarse.

Pinot Noir was born in Burgundy, which lies in eastern France, roughly between the cities of Dijon and Lyon. Although stylish and fashionable, Pinot Noir was born a long time ago. There is evidence that Pinot Noir already existed in the 4th century AD, but it was not until the 14th century that her future was ensured. The grape’s fortune is undoubtedly linked with the clout of the powerful medieval monasteries in eastern France and Germany. It is no coincidence that the monks chose Pinot Noir as their noble grape. They had discovered that her delicateness reflected individual characteristics of the local terroirs, which was understood to be a message from God.

Nowadays we find Pinot Noir everywhere wine is made. Despite the fact that she prefers limestone soils and relatively cool climate conditions, winemakers all over the world attempt to approach the unequalled quality of Burgundy’s noble red. No one has succeeded, though… Or, should I say, almost no one. Although she has been transplanted to almost every wine region in the world, Pinot Noir hates to adapt herself. She has difficulties residing in warm countries. In my experience, it is hard to find an outstanding Pinot Noir in regions such as southern Europe and the New World (except New Zealand). In hot climates, she easily becomes flabby and overly jammy. The grape prefers cool climates where she can ripen relatively slowly in order to retain her vivid acidity and complex flavors of red fruit, minerality and a slight herbaceous touch.

These conditions make Germany one of her favorite destinations. The Germans call her Spätburgunder, which literally means “the late (ripening of) Burgundy”. Despite her long presence and importance in Germany during the Middle Ages, this noble grape had not attracted much attention in the last century. However, it experienced a most notable comeback in Germany in the late 1990s with a fourfold increase in plantings, making her Germany’s most planted red-grape variety today. The most famous region for Spätburgunder in Germany is, without doubt, Baden, located near the city of Freiburg.

A good Pinot Noir — whether French or German — has delicate aromas of red fruit (notably, strawberry, raspberry and cherry). When young, she is characterized by some herbaceousness and a floral hint. As she matures, the aromas evolve rapidly and change into flavors of leather, game and smokiness. On the palate, a good Pinot Noir has a vivid acidic backbone which is in harmony with its fine-grained, silky tannins. The wine is light-bodied and very supple, with well-defined aromas.

So, how do we tell a French Pinot Noir from one disguised as a German Spätburgunder? A typical Pinot Noir from Burgundy has a little vegetal note and has a clear expression of the limestone soil. Traditionally, she does not like to be heavily oaked and is pleased with 18 months of barrel ageing and under 50% of new wood. Fortunately, she behaves similarly in Germany and can easily be identified. In Baden, she is slightly sweeter and exhibits more ripe fruit. A Spätburgunder is more full-bodied and matured in large oak casks that give her a distinct smoky perfume. The local gravel soils provide the wine with a strong mineral aroma which is different from Burgundy’s limestone. The fact that German winemakers treat her according to their own style — which is close to, and yet so different from the way the French make it — makes Germany, in my opinion, the only country where she is as beautiful as in France.

However enthusiastic I am about Spätburgunder, I realize that the traditions that winemakers in Burgundy have built over the last centuries give them a serious advantage over their German counterparts. The renown of Burgundy for the world’s most famous Pinot Noirs is well-justified, and Spätburgunder is yet her little sister. Many German producers still need to learn how to treat our lady, but I also recognize that not all French producers know her very well. What makes me happy, however, is that Spätburgunder offers a worthy alternative for the sometimes overpriced Pinot Noirs. The most important thing is that you can enjoy her in either style. I suggest that you give yourself the chance to get to know her, but do not forget to handle her with care.