Sun, Sea, Sand and Rosé

First published in the print edition of Forbes Magazine Ukraine, 2013.

Rosé wines — the perfect wine for the time of the year. This light-styled wine, usually characterized by aromas of ripe, freshly picked red fruits and the florality of a flowering meadow, reminds me of a most beautiful summer day. The refreshing taste of a chilled rosé makes it the perfect companion to survive a thirsty hot day. You can enjoy it as an afternoon aperitif on a terrace, during a barbecue dinner, or late at night as a last glass before going to bed. Rosé wines come in a number of styles. The color can range from intense pink to soft salmon, the taste from bone dry and refreshingly acidic to mellow and slightly sweet.

The answer to the question why we associate rosé with summer days can be found by going back to the regions of its origin. In southern France, where the most famous rosés are produced, there is a local demand for a dry wine refreshing enough to be drunk on a hot summer’s day. These regions are often too hot to produce elegant white wines, and the local red wines are too heavy to accompany a light meal. Rosés are drunk to combine the best of both styles.

Compared to red and white wines, rosé represents only about 10% of world wine production, with a total volume estimated at 25.3 million hectoliters. Although it is only a tiny fraction of the total, it is the fastest growing category with a 13% increase over the last eight years.

It is not difficult to find a rosé wine — they can easily be found at your local wine supplier — but it is not always easy to find a good one. The art is about finding the one you like. In order to select the right rosé you first need to understand how it is made. You might think rosé is easy to make, but I assure you that making a good rosé requires a lot of craftsmanship and experience. It is not about simply blending a white wine and a red wine together. According to the rules of the European Union on quality wines, it is in fact forbidden to make rosé by blending white and red wine (with one notable exception: rosé Champagne). Although blending can’t be done in the EU, it is sometimes practised outside the EU, but it is not common practice for quality wines.

The preferred technique for quality rosé is a short maceration. This means that once the red grapes are picked and crushed, the juice stays in contact with the skins just long enough to extract sufficient color, aroma, and flavor. This process usually takes between 8 and 12 hours, but can last up to two days — compared to four to six weeks for red wine. Thereafter the juice is drained and the skins are pressed. Once the pink juice is collected, fermentation proceeds just as for white wine.

The production process calls for grapes that are relatively light in color and produce soft wines. One of the most popular grapes for rosé is therefore Grenache, which has exactly the right characteristics: fairly light color, soft tannins, juicy fruit, and medium body. It is no coincidence that some of the most famous rosés are made from this noble grape. In France the most important appellations for rosé can be found along the banks of the Rhône, with Tavel and Lirac as premium appellations. Grenache is also a key variety for rosé in other regions of France and in Spain, where the grape is known as Garnacha and the wines are called rosado. Another notable French region is the Loire, which typically produces a lighter, more acidic style compared to the Grenache wines of the south. Whereas in the Old World rosés are usually dry, in the New World they are often sweet. The trend for pink wines there was driven by a fashion in the 1980s — the word “blush” was used to describe pale rosés made from dark-skinned grapes. A typical example is White Zinfandel, produced mainly in California and almost always characterized by a sweet touch of residual sugar, often served with ice.

Whatever style you prefer, bear in mind that almost all rosés are not intended for ageing. They should be drunk young — preferably within the first year, though some can be kept up to three years. One tip: avoid the cheapest rosés and look for mid-priced bottles. And do not forget to drink them in the right circumstances. A rosé can be the ideal companion with a light summer meal, but you will definitely not want it on your table during game season.